Meeting with Bertrand Bourdil

Bertrand Bourdil. His name may not ring a bell, likely due to his discreet nature, but we’re certain that names like Mouton Rothschild or Opus One resonate with you! Bertrand served as the technical director for over twenty years and, alongside his team, achieved two 100/100 scores from Wine Advocate in the 1980s. Today, Bertrand works away from the spotlight on his family property in Saint-Émilion, Château Chérubin. On this magnificent terroir, he crafts a wine that some describe as having a “Pomerol-like attack with the finish of a Pauillac.”

Every moment spent with Bertrand and his family is a genuine pleasure for the Vignobles et Châteaux team. Whether during a vineyard visit, tasting a vintage, or engaging in conversation over a good meal, Bertrand shares anecdotes and experiences generously. His passion is contagious, and we savor every drop! We are delighted that Bertrand has agreed to open up about his career, his perspective on the profession, and his new daily life at Château Chérubin. It’s a sensitive and highly personal encounter with this great man who prefers to live discreetly.

What have been the highlights of your career?

At the age of 23, I had an opportunity, one that changes a lifetime. While I was involved in research, the laboratory manager informed me that Mouton Rothschild was looking for an oenologist. It was in 1977. I remember accepting without hesitation! That’s how I found myself at 23 managing 41 people across three cellars: Clerc Milon, d’Armailhac, and Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac. It was an intense start, but I quickly found my footing and became familiar with my new responsibilities.

The second highlight occurred in 1980 when an agreement was signed with Mondavi for a project in Napa Valley. My mission was to define the identity of Opus One. So, for three years, I followed the production process up to the blending, visiting the site several times each year.

What decisions have you made in your career that have contributed the most to your growth?

After years in the cellars at Mouton, I decided to make a transition into a role as a technical director for the estates, overseeing both vineyard and winemaking management. Later, I decided to pivot towards the commercial side. I became a Key Account Manager for Northern Europe at Barons Philippe de Rothschild. This hands-on experience proved to be extremely enriching!

What lessons do you draw from this experience dealing with the markets?

If precision characterizes the technician, the salesperson requires a good deal of psychology to build confidence with the buyer. One must not be afraid to go into the field with the sales team, involve sales managers… In short, it’s necessary to roll up one’s sleeves to elevate the relationship built with the buyer to another level. Today, this proves quite useful at Château Chérubin. Maintaining a strong connection with the sales network is essential!

I was a link in a whole chain. As a technical director, I had the privilege of being able to rely on a team that understood what quality wine meant.

Bertrand Bourdil

What has been your greatest stroke of luck?

I was a link in a whole chain. As a technical director, I had the privilege of being able to rely on a team that understood what quality wine meant. I always listened to Raoul Blondin, who was the cellar master at Mouton for over 50 years! He had such a deep knowledge of all the vintages; it was a joy for me! In the ’80s, we had two 100/100 scores from Wine Advocate: 1982 and 1986. It was a great decade for us!

How did you make the transition to your project, Château Chérubin?

After 20 years at Mouton, I had the desire to develop my own venture. In the Médoc, in Pauillac, Saint Julien, or Margaux, no land was accessible within my budget, and at the same time, I had a strong liking for Saint-Emilion.

In 1997, I had the opportunity to join the Union des Producteurs de Saint-Emilion as a director while having an agreement to continue my consulting activities in the USA with Mondavi, as well as in Spain and Argentina. These parallel experiences allowed me to raise funds and continue gaining expertise in various terroirs and technical challenges.

How did the Château Chérubin project come to be?

The period from 1997 to 2006 at the Union des Producteurs de Saint-Emilion was a real bridge. I could observe the terroirs, taste the lots, and make the wines. I also got closer to the producers, and it’s through this network that I was informed of the sale of a plot that I liked a lot. We immediately reached an agreement with the family that was selling this beautiful terroir. That’s the start of the Chérubin adventure, on July 31, 2005.

Why here and not elsewhere?

I decided to settle on this terroir precisely because, after touring the appellation for 10 years, I had identified numerous parcels, and most importantly, I had spoken with the elders. I remember one day, one of them said to me, ‘Ah! You want to buy there? You’ll make good wines!’ It was a decision based on observation, tasting analysis of the grapes, and later on, I supplemented it with soil studies for more precision.

What is a 'good' grape according to you?

A “good” grape is simple. It’s like a good perfume. It’s balanced, aromatic, and complex with different notes that develop. After tasting, you experience aromatic persistence. In parallel, the quality of the tannins makes a great wine, and they are influenced by the quality of the soil. At Chérubin, we are in the heart of a 12-hectare vein where there is iron-rich gravel, and this, combined with clays, contributes to giving the wine a strong personality.

What is your approach to viticulture and winemaking?

The quality of the grapes comes from the soil, and then, it’s an association of details that makes a difference. One must be observant and draw inspiration from the best practices. For example, I’ve kept hand destemming from Mouton and aging exclusively in new barrels. Today, I have the necessary perspective to precisely adjust my technical knowledge about grape maturity and extraction methods.

Let’s focus on a crucial point: vine management. I adhere to biodynamic principles without certification, meaning no chemical fertilizers since 2009. As a side note, one day, my mother, while tasting the 2008 vintage, said, ‘Bertrand, your wines taste like grass!’ At the time, we used to sow between the rows and mow the grass, which would naturally decompose. This piqued my curiosity, and the following year, I decided to work the soils and stop mowing between the rows. Since then, I’ve been planting clover and rye every other row in the fall to create material, allowing the soil to self-maintain. After shredding, this mulch of dried straw integrated into the soil helps limit natural soil evaporation.

How do you like to talk about your wines

I hosted a former journalist from Le Figaro, Bernard Burtschy, who, after tasting a vertical of 10 years, said to me, ‘Your wine has the mouthfeel of a Pomerol at the attack with the finish of a Pauillac.’ I found that comment quite friendly. It’s true that I try to achieve that tone of softness and balance at the beginning, but I appreciate wines with substance because I was built in that environment.

Why do you insist on mainly marketing vintages that are ready to drink?

When I was at the director of Mouton, I remember a tasting at Château Ausone of the 1964 vintage. It was incredibly elegant with polished facets and a superb bouquet from aging. This great wine from Saint-Emilion remains my guiding principle in what I seek.

Then, when I started Chérubin, offering vintages with some age was also my way of setting myself apart from others. The idea is to appeal to a clientele that wants to indulge in a vintage that is ready to drink.

What is the family organization around this project?

My two daughters are partners, as are my two younger sons and Magali. My daughters have pursued courses that enable them to contribute to the project. For example, Marie-Line created the website, and we wrote the texts together. Carole wrote her final thesis on Château Chérubin, providing a good initial analysis: producing a small quantity of high-quality wine. The boys are also present at the estate during vacations.

Why did you choose this name?

Previously, the property was called Vieux Fonrazade, and we wanted to change that. One day, I came across a brochure on Saint-Emilion with the two cherubs from the vault of the monolithic church on the cover. Chérubin, the name is found! Moreover, it’s a subtle nod that quietly connects our project to Saint-Émilion.

Why did you choose a local marketing strategy?

In Chérubin’s philosophy, I have always preserved the distribution by creating strong connections with representatives, including sommeliers, wine merchants, distributors, or, as in your case, with Vignobles et Châteaux. Building simple, strong, and healthy relationships is crucial to me.