Meeting with Guillaume Lavollée - Vignobles et Châteaux

Guillaume is part of this new generation of winemakers in Burgundy with whom we enjoy working, and this goes beyond the quality and precision of his wines, which have convinced us. We have been following him for several years, and it is always a pleasure to share his wines with you, who trust us for your purchases and dinners around the world.

Quiet and unassuming, they have done tremendous work on the family estate with his wife, Aude. Today, Domaine Génot-Boulanger counts 22 hectares of vineyards that have been certified organic in 2018, spanning from the Côte Chalonnaise to the Côte de Nuits, passing through the Côte de Beaune and its prestigious appellations such as Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet.

Having initially worked in a profession far removed from vineyards, Guillaume humbly shares his journey and the step-by-step process of taking over the estate. An amicable exchange that naturally unfolds during the tasting of the upcoming vintage, soon to be bottled. It’s an opportunity to grasp all the subtleties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, accompanied by their history and reflections.

Simplicity, elegance, refinement. A meeting of minds.

Can you introduce yourself and explain your background?

I met Aude, my wife, in 2006. We were living in Paris until the day my father-in-law, who was the director and owner of Domaine Génot-Boulanger in Meursault, offered me the opportunity to join him. In the very first year, I started studying technical aspects of winemaking in Beaune because I was entirely new to the industry. At 25 years old, with no children, we took the plunge. Aude, who is a teacher and a professional tennis player, didn’t anticipate that by coming here, she would be able to continue pursuing her passion while also combining it with a job in accounting and administrative management at the estate.

Can you tell us about Domaine Génot-Boulanger?

The estate takes its name from Aude’s grandparents, who were in the pharmaceutical industry. Mr. Génot had always dreamt of owning vineyards and in 1974, he purchased his first vineyard in Mercurey. He later settled in Meursault, and today, the estate encompasses 22 hectares spread across the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise, and the Côte de Nuits.

What was the biggest challenge for you when you arrived at the estate?

The most challenging, and ultimately the simplest, was to surround ourselves with the right people because at the age of 25, you can have intuitions but not certainties. In 2007, our first initiative was to appoint a “captain” in the estate, and we hired Nicolas, who is still with us. Looking back, I can say that he was a key element in building our confidence. So, I learned alongside him and also with the team, some of whom had been working at the estate for over 30 years.

What is the biggest change implemented at the estate?

Since 2018, the entire 22-hectare estate has been certified as organic, but the first trials date back to 2008, with years of fear, doubt, and uncertainty, including episodes of hail and mildew. Not being certified always left us with an escape route to revert back. That’s why I encouraged the team to pursue certification to eliminate that temptation. We were all convinced because there were visible, tangible results on the plants. The most striking example was the absence of rot in 2012 or 2013, whereas in 2009, theoretically a very healthy vintage, we had experienced it.

What are the future challenges for the estate?

From a technical perspective, the goal is continuous improvement. I am convinced that we are going to witness a revolution driven by technological advancements, with the use of drones for spraying (as it is the case in Switzerland, for example).

Another challenge for a Burgundy estate is ensuring its longevity. Land-related issues and succession are sensitive and delicate matters to address within a family. Everyone’s desire is, of course, that one of our children will eventually take over the estate, but there are no guarantees.

The challenge is to treat all the wines with the same commitment to excellence and doing things right according to the characteristics of each terroir. This primarily involves actions taken during vinification, with extractions tailored to each wine.

Guillaume Lavollée

At the estate, you have a wide diversity of terroirs over more than 70 kilometers, which is quite unusual in Burgundy. How do you approach this diversity?

After several years, you know your plots better, and this expertise allows you to work as closely as possible with the reality of each parcel. From Clos Vougeot to Mercurey, through Meursault, farming, winemaking, and marketing are different.

The challenge is to treat all the wines with the same commitment to excellence and doing things right according to the characteristics of each terroir. This primarily involves actions taken during vinification, with extractions tailored to each wine.

Are there any winemakers or person who inspire you?

When I arrived at the estate, I was thrown into the deep end with trips to importers, and I found myself alongside the big names of Burgundy. The first time in my life that I tasted a Gevrey-Chambertin, it was from Armand Rousseau! This provides benchmarks and is very inspiring for our daily work with the terroirs. It’s the self-reflection and the collaboration with Nicolas internally that has truly propelled us forward.

What is the best compliment one can give you when tasting your wines?

Your wines have conveyed a beautiful emotion to us.” It’s simple. Having technically well-made wines is the minimum because that’s our job. But the real challenge is to evoke emotions during the tasting.

Portrait

Book: Wilbur Smith’s adventure novels because they take me on a journey and allow me to escape from everyday life. Additionally, I read many magazines, especially when traveling, such as The Good Life or Challenge.

Music: Queen’s “Don’t Stop Me Now” at full volume in the car with the kids, and for quieter moments, Alain Souchon or Juliette Armanet, which I’ve listened to on repeat.

Film: My cultural knowledge is quite limited, but I mainly watch films on small screens, especially when flying! “The Lion King” and “Intouchable.”

Dish: I love everything, as long as it’s good! The dish that moves me the most is veal blanquette because it reminds me of my childhood. It’s a comforting dish and the first one I learned to cook.

Memorable Bottle: Barolo by Bartolo Mascarello 1982, my vintage. A few years later, I visited the estate, and Maria Teresa came to our Meursault estate. It was a wonderful encounter.

Grape Variety: Chardonnay and Savagnin

Color: Blue

Smell: Roses

Sport: Golf

Destination: New Zealand

Perfect Sunday: A round of golf, lunch with friends, and an afternoon with the family and children.