Rencontre with Humberto Herrera

In a world where wine tells stories of terroirs, traditions, and “rencontres”, Humberto Herrera, a Mexican industrial engineer, has carved a unique path into the world of fine wines. With an insatiable curiosity and a passion sparked by a great bottle of Chardonnay from Domaine de la Bongran, he transformed his personal quest into a deep exploration of wine as an art of living and an emotion to be experienced with the people he values.

It is with us that he shares his experience, discoveries, and reflections on what sets one great wine apart from another, the importance of surrounding oneself with the right people, and the pleasure of savoring each bottle as a moment suspended in time. This sensitive and inspiring conversation invites us to rediscover the essence of wine: a vehicle for connection, memory, and joy.

RE – CONNECTION

I sought out a mentor and met Maxime at a dinner with Rajat Parr. He explained what he was doing, and I asked him where to begin. He suggested allocating a budget for a curated selection, which he would ship to me in Mexico. These shipments included Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne – young and old vintages. With each bottle, he sent notes to guide my tasting. That was my first real wine class.

From this experience, I learned a crucial lesson: price isn’t the key to choosing a wine shop – education and relationships are far more valuable. That said, Vignobles et Châteaux also offers very competitive pricing. Through Maxime, I met you, Marie, and that’s how I began exploring Burgundy in-depth.

I realized I wasn’t just interested in wine, I wanted to understand great wines. The challenge lies in the sheer volume of regions, producers, and styles; it’s impossible to taste everything. In my opinion – and this might be controversial – the majority of wines produced worldwide are not truly great wines.

One of my personal principles is “the art of learning is learning what to ignore”. And just as you need to identify what you love, it’s equally important to identify what doesn’t bring pleasure and joy.

Great wines result from the harmony of several elements. First, and perhaps obviously, is the match between grape variety and terroir. For example, planting a Nebbiolo clone from Valtellina in Mexico yields almost undrinkable wine. Second, you need a vigneron who genuinely cares. Finally, in my personal taste, I prefer lighter, less alcoholic, very dry, and elegant wines.

Maxime sent me bottles from Bordeaux, allowing me to compare side-by-side. This helped me understand the significance of vintage and why older vintages are often more accessible than young ones. For experts, this is obvious, but for beginners, such hands-on education is invaluable.

The real challenge was identifying what I truly liked. Maxime never dictated my preferences or pushed a specific style. Instead, he provided a tailored selection that allowed me to explore and form my own judgments. It was like sampling all the flavors at an ice cream shop to discover your favorite.

For me, learning needs to be interactive and enjoyable—sitting in a classroom or reading a book about wine just doesn’t work. Visiting vineyards, walking through the terroir, and asking countless questions is paradise.

These trips were transformative. Around 60 to 70% of my taste preferences developed through them. Traveling in France taught me that wine is an integral part of the culture. It also deepened my understanding of how local cuisine complements the wine. Meeting the people who create these wines was equally impactful.

It might sound simple, but wine is fundamentally an agricultural product made by farmers – not just businessmen, though sometimes they are both. This realization was far from the image I had, shaped by industrial brands in Mexico and the U.S. I also learned not to dismiss volume production. For instance, Dom Pérignon is a fantastic wine despite being produced on a large scale. Probably my most important lesson happened during a visit to Salon Champagne, where the winemaker handed me a piece of chalk from the vineyard and asked me to lick it before tasting the Champagne. The moment when I understood such connection, truly captured how the terroir translates into the wine.

While terroir is relevant, hospitality and client experience is fundamental. In recent years, France has stepped up in this regard. In Napa, for example, visitors are treated like royalty. Pairing a great wine with an exceptional experience creates a lasting impression. I strongly  believe we are not rational beings, but emotional ones, that’s why hospitality is crucial.

I’ll never forget our lunch at Château d’Yquem with Pierre Lurton. He masterfully hosted us, serving special back vintages alongside incredible food, and was fully present with us. It was unforgettable. After that, Yquem got imprinted in my mind forever.

It all began with you, Marie. On our last lunch in Burgundy at La Dilettante, you recommended the book Wine and War. Reading it, I discovered the story of the Champagne Salon bottles that were taken from the Eagle’s Nest during liberation. Later, I visited Salon, where I saw the last two bottles of the 1939 vintage mentioned in the book. As a history lover, this was a profound moment. Plus, we were the first Mexican guests to visit Salon ever. They didn’t have a Mexican flag, so they sent someone to Paris to get one. That gesture made the experience even more special.

Maxime taught me the most about this. Initially, I tasted a Château Saint-Georges 1948 – the year my father was born. I’ve learned to appreciate how back vintages reveal unique aromas and create memorable shared experiences. One standout moment was when Maxime found a 1972 bottle for a friend’s birthday. Tasting it together combined history and emotion into something magical.

A mystical, historic bottle from Salon – perhaps the 1939 vintage. It would be like tasting history itself.

The industry needs to make wine education more accessible and exciting. Pavarotti made opera approachable for people who never thought they’d enjoy it – wine needs something similar.

Events that are interactive and fun, like those by Wine Spectator or Wine Advocate, could serve as inspiration. If, when I started, I’d have found lunches in good restaurants where I could learn in an engaging way about Bordeaux, Sauternes, and vintages, I’d have progressed much faster and wasted less money on mediocre wines.

Find a mentor and taste, taste, taste. Try the wines they suggest and explore widely. Maxime once said something that stuck with me: “The best wine is the one you like; as long as you have already tried all the great wines and producers.” You need reference points, like Picasso, Rembrandt, or Matisse in art, to understand your preferences.

White Burgundy or Champagne. But as the Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux in Mexico, I probably should balance things out, I’ll add Château d’Yquem.

Thank you Humberto for sharing with us your experience.

Photos and words  by Marie-Pierre Dardouillet, Cépages communication x Vignobles et Châteaux