Meeting with Benoit Riffault
Even if Burgundy wines are becoming increasingly difficult to find, there are some winemakers whose prices remain accessible. Emilie and Benoit Riffault are part of a down to earth generation – or rather down to vineyard – who strive to preserve the winemaking spirit of Burgundy and produce wines that are humble, precise, and worthy of the terroirs they have inherited. They embody human sensitivity behind each label that we are delighted to promote at Vignobles et Châteaux.
Benoit Riffault welcomes us for this rencontre at the foot of his rows of vines in the family home of Domaine Etienne Sauzet, located in the heart of the village of Puligny-Montrachet.
The winery and cellars are the result of a subtle adjustments where walls and ceilings have been removed over the years to make room for the wine making facilities required for Chardonnay.
Afterwards, we ventured towards the tasting room in a recently renovated building with a direct view of the Montrachet hill… what a sight! This space offers a perfect setting that inspires and connects with the atmosphere of Burgundy. Samples from the 2022 vintage lined up, microphone set in place, we tasted a range of nuanced Chardonnays from a variety of terroirs, Benoit answered our questions.
In what context did you and Emilie join the family estate?
I arrived in 2002, two years after Emilie. The estate was already established and possessed a set wine style. We needed to immerse ourselves in the local atmosphere, and personally, I had to discover Chardonnay as I came from the Loire Valley with a stint in Alsace. Emilie’s family made a place for me on the team. Being a winemaker, I needed to start with the vineyard.
Has the estate changed since the 2000s?
The landholding has evolved slightly. Today, it is 14.5 hectares – 35.8 acres, supplemented by some grape purchases in Puligny and the Hautes-Côtes around the village of Nolay. For the rest, everything has been gradual; we have continued in the same vein as the past. However, 2009 marked a turning point with the introduction of biodynamic farming, receiving the Ecocert certification in 2013. We work on all our cuvées with the same philosophy. We use large wooden vats for the grapes from the Hautes Côtes and traditional 228 or 350-liter barrels for the wines of Domaine Sauzet.
Why did you choose the Hautes Côtes de Beaune near Nolay for a change of pace?
We were looking for an additional area with a local identity and we liked this one. Most of the terroirs of the Burgundy appellations are located on the plain, on deep clay soils which produce beautiful grapes. On the other hand, in the Hautes-Côtes, there is more freshness among the hilly areas different from the clay-limestone of the Coast, with stronger terroir characteristics.
How do you define the wines of Domaine Sauzet?
I would like people to associate the wines of Domaine Sauzet with purity, an expression of the local terroir. I prefer that there be a “terroir” style rather than that of a “winemaker.”
What is your winemaking approach to preserve this terroir style?
My approach is reassessed each vintage with one goal: to harvest the best grapes. The balance we strike (both numerical and taste) are more reflective of the identity than before, and this fully aligns with the concept of terroir. This is satisfying because I believe that when we have beautiful grapes in the vat, 90% of the work is done. You just need to know how to wisely intervene afterwards.
In the cellar, we assist the vinification process, oversee, but intervene as little as possible. In the vineyard, we encourage the “natural” approach, but in the cellar, I make sure to securely achieve the desired purity.
What are the terroir markers in Burgundy?
Burgundy is based on clay-limestone soil. We often refer to minerality, or a salivating, iodized character, evoked by limestone bedrock. Then, there is the clay, which is just as important as the limestone. The clays of Nuits-Saint-Georges are different from those of Volnay. For white wines, we have the same subtleties depending on the deep, lighter, or iron-rich clays. This soil structure will have an impact on the surface in terms of water management and the uptake of potassium, for example. Thus, it is essential to consider both the limestone bedrock in the subsoil and the soil with a partially clay structure.
How are these terroir subtleties portrayed in your different cuvées at the estate?
Among the estate’s Grands Crus, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, located at the lower part of the slope, is at the extreme opposite of Chevalier-Montrachet at the top of the slope. The latter represents intense finesse, minerality, elegance combined with the distinction and strength of a Grand Cru. Conversely, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is found on much deeper and more clay-rich soils. It is a rather muscular wine with an immense, energetic structure combined with beautiful acidity.
Among our Premiers Crus, we could imagine a parallelism with Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatières or La Richarde near Chevalier-Montrachet. Here, the profile is chalky, elegant. precise; characteristics that can also be found in the champagnes of Cramant. On the opposite side of this diagonal towards Meursault, we have the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts plot, which is located at the foot of the slope on deep, the soil here is difficult-to-work clays. Here, the wines are centered on substance, voluptuous with a very fresh backbone.
How do you view the soaring prices in Burgundy?
It’s obvious that this situation is the result of both of small harvests and strong international demand. The frost of the 2021 vintage, which affected over 80% of the region, was a huge factor. While Burgundy has ridden a phenomenal wave, we all know this situation is not sustainable. At the estate, we ensure that our wines are consumed, which is why we continue to work calmly with our private clients, restaurants, and long-term importers. We choose our partners, such as Vignobles et Châteaux, who share this philosophy.
How do you like to talk about your wines?
A great Burgundy wine must have a certain structure, purity, and identity. That’s what I seek, in any case. I like to talk about the identity of the place and then, each wine must be constructed differently because it is born uniquely each vintage.
What is the most intricate decision you've had to make in your career?
The harvest period is intense with decision-making. You must react swiftly as there are many factors to consider. I must admit that this moment is the one I enjoy the most in my job. Tasting the grapes, sensing the potential of the harvest… It’s a whole experience!
Have you been tempted to vinify red wines as well?
For the past three vintages, I’ve been playing around with a few small-batch Pinot Noir wines. It allows me to break out of my routine and appeases my curiosity. It’s still in the works, but I’ve also recently explored Château-Chalon in the Jura.
As a Burgundy winemaker, upholding the identity of the place is key. This mosaic of crus and villages demands rigor and gives Burgundy wines their richness.
How is life organized at the estate?
The estate relies on a team of ten people year-round, and Emilie and I work as a tandem. She takes care of the commercial and administrative side, while I manage the vineyard and cellar teams. We organize ourselves this way to be efficient, but for example, during the harvest, she is in the cellar with me.
Do you have any mentors?
My father-in-law guided me a lot, and to name just one, Pierre Morey (when he was at Domaine Leflaive). He inspired me and allowed me to discover biodynamic farming quicker. I have a pure relationship with Jean-Louis Trapet, for whom I have a fondness, and also with Olivier Humbrecht, with whom I worked in Alsace in 1998.
Which Bordeaux wines do you enjoy?
Saint-Émilion and Pomerol are more my style than the Médoc, although there are exceptions. I like the finesse, and actually, I prefer today’s Bordeaux wines to those from 20 years ago; they are less extracted.
Portrait
Film: I’m easy going but I would choose a film by Céric Klapisch
Music: Coldplay
Book: I read the newspaper ‘l’Équipe’ every day
Vintage: 2019. This is a vintage where we chose to wait before harvesting and I am happy with this decision because it is powerful and concentrated. It has a strong personality and a nice potential for laying down.
Meal: I like to cook fish and if not, chicken.
Memorable bottle: it was not a foregone conclusion, and I would not have chosen this bottle instinctively but Château Rayas white 1998. Splendid!
Perfect Sunday: a little exercise in the morning followed by a meal with family or friends
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Photos et propos recueillis par Marie-Pierre Dardouillet, Cépages communication pour Vignobles et Châteaux