Meeting with Blandine de Brier Manoncourt & Frédéric Faye

How can the name Figeac resonate in the minds of wine enthusiasts when so many articles already sing its praises – and rightfully so? The answer surely lies in these words: “When you are sincere, it happens naturally.”

With simplicity, Blandine de Brier Manoncourt and Frédéric Faye invite us into the world of Château-Figeac. The recent promotion to the rank of Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A, a well-deserved title, has not altered the property’s fundamental goal: “to make wines to be enjoyed.“

This encounter embodies the authenticity we love to share, enriched by personal nuances that lend depth and meaning to this exchange.

BBM: At first glance, I would say respect. Respect for the land, for what takes place here, for the people who work here, and for those who interact with us. We owe that to everyone. The Manoncourt approach at Figeac is based on numerous experiments led by my father, Thierry Manoncourt, an agronomist and innovator. It’s not about a desire to innovate or change for his own sake but rather adapting to reality. Welcoming, sharing, and exchanging ideas are fundamental for us. We make wines to be enjoyed.

FF: I would add sincerity to that list. The team has a clear goal: to craft a wine that embodies the place, the grape varieties, the aromatic purity, and the vintage. This involves ensuring the vineyard’s sustainability, using our own massal selection clones, and preserving equal parts of the three grape varieties. We need both a short-term vision for the current vintage and a long-term one, projecting across generations to protect the soils. This translates to the winery as well. The family has invested in a new tool — a significant investment for a family business — to express the mosaic of terroir with vats of various sizes, offering varied temperatures and space to work properly. We respect the industry and know our wines are meant to be enjoyed; we do not see our clients as bankers. Sincerity manifests in all these details, questions, and thought processes. 

BBM: Figeac belonged to my father Thierry Manoncourt’s family, and he visited from time to time. During World War II, he was called to service, and upon returning from captivity in 1943 to Paris, his parents informed him that his grandmother, who owned Figeac, had passed away. His family then asked him to assess the economic situation of the estate amid the wartime context. Reluctantly, he visited, as he wanted to continue his agronomy studies. He eventually stayed for the summer. He listened, observed, and understood what Figeac was. Back in Paris, he said, “I don’t want to oversee it, but yes, there is potential.” After completing his studies in 1947, his parents asked to set up a team at the property. As a dutiful son, he agreed to come for a year but did not want to live in the countryside. The rest is history: he spent his life there. The place “charmed him,” raising the question of whether we belong to the place or if it is the contrary.

FF: Mr. Manoncourt was also a founding member of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux in 1973. He appreciated winemakers from the region and beyond. Perhaps this is why Château-Figeac is one of the few Bordeaux wines that have officially been served at a Chapitre at Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy.

FF: I joined as an intern in 2002, eager to learn and understand. I remember my first tasting of Figeac: it was the 2001 vintage, still in barrel. In the old winery, I was struck by an aromatic explosion of fruit, flowers, and spices. On the palate, it was straightforward, clean, precise, with the Cabernet Franc texture lending a lasting finish. It was a true reflection of Figeac’s light, gravelly soils, giving it an airy quality. Figeac is a place, an agricultural, wine estate with a family that owns and lives on it.

FF: It is a vast, contiguous estate with complex soils, grape varieties, and microclimates. We are constantly refining our definition of Figeac, as Mr. Manoncourt did. I don’t know if a winemaker can fully define their wine.

BBM: It was one of the five noble houses of Saint-Émilion in the Middle Ages, spanning 200 to 250 hectares, but it was fragmented, especially in the 19th century. Since my family purchased it in 1892, it has remained unchanged: 54 hectares, with 41 of them under vine.

FF: All 54 hectares are classified as Premier Grand Cru Classé A. The finest terroirs are planted, but it remains a living space we are committed to preserving. The stream running through the estate is like a spine, playing an important role in the property’s microclimates—a complex matrix.

BBM: In this spirit of continuity, I should mention the label created by our grandmother’s brother, Robert Villepigue, for the 1906 vintage. We still have his sketches. It was innovative: there is no drawing of the château, just “Château,” “Figeac,” “Saint-Émilion” with the seal, a symbol of stability, commitment, and family heritage. In 1953, my father added the coat of arms of his grandmother, who had purchased Figeac, within the seal. The label has barely changed, apart from some developments related to printing techniques.

BBM: That’s a broad question. It’s not revolutionary but rather instant recognition of what Figeac is. It represents the highest level of excellence in Saint-Émilion. It affirms our way of working and motivates us never to rest on our laurels, either by validating what we’ve always done or, if necessary, adapting. It’s also a heightened responsibility for the appellation and other producers. We don’t teach, but we know we’re observed, which gives us a sense of responsibility in some way.

FF: I like that we work as a team. Often, answers emerge naturally, and if a decision is needed, I make it. We listen to the team, and even interns have a say. However, the family always has the final word.

BBM: Sometimes, certain people weigh more in decisions because they’ve worked in-depth on a subject. Nonetheless, it remains a collective decision. We appreciate that the team feels at home here: team members welcome visitors and create bonds with them, just as we would.

FF: Harvest is an essential time, as well as the blend and primeurs. The goal is to listen to the market to ensure success with traders and consumers. This requires high-quality wine in the bottle and a “good price” at the primeurs release to spark consumer interest. A 100-point rating is just one step.

FF: Among recent vintages, 2015 marked a turning point in both vinification and vineyard knowledge. This soil study project, conducted with the University of Dijon, concluded in 2018. It allowed us to validate the construction plans for the new winery. In 2015, we aimed for more precision and aromatic purity, adjusting harvest dates slightly earlier, not using sulfur during vinification (only adding it after malolactic fermentation), and switching to anti-TCA corks.

BBM: Figeac is the star. The estate is not personified, perhaps because we came after Thierry Manoncourt, who many said Figeac’s soul. That notion bothered me a bit because It’s not true. Figeac is still here! It isn’t defined by one person or by three words. It’s the strength of the place.

FF: Stay humble! I love arriving at Figeac in the morning, with roses along the path and the plants that have always been there—it’s authentic. In the evening, the colors are fabulous. All the entrances and paths to Figeac are open.

BBM: It’s a very powerful and recent memory: the day the classification was announced. We were waiting, and then the news came. We all embraced each other —Frédéric, Romain Jean-Pierre, our technical director, my mother, and my sister. We congratulated each other. Then, it became a sort of procession that grew as we moved through the offices and headed to the winery. Madame Manoncourt called out the cellar master, to tell him the fresh news. We were right in the middle of the harvest, and everyone knew what this meant. Both temporary and permanent staff were delighted! The story here is long, as Figeac is a big place! (Laughs) We continued through the vineyards to find our vineyard manager, Christophe. It was a truly powerful moment! That evening, we celebrated together with the whole team—an improvised barbecue and some beautiful bottles. It went on and on. None of us wanted to leave, even though harvest would resume early the next morning. It was a moment of pure bliss.

FF: It was late September 2002, and I was an intern working in the cellar. Mr. Manoncourt walked by and went down to the cellar with his iron basket in front of me. He came back up with four bottles for lunch and a fifth bottle in hand. He asked me to check the vintage of that last one: “This is your birth year, isn’t it?” I found it incredibly thoughtful that he went to the office to look up that detail on my work contract, then personally offered me this bottle. I thought it was so classy that I kept the bottle, and I’ve never opened it! I’ve had others, but I kept this one as a keepsake. This gesture truly captured the joy and inspiration you can give to a young person just starting out.

Photos et propos recueillis par Marie-Pierre Dardouillet, Cépages communication pour Vignobles et Châteaux