Rencontre with Sylvie Poillot
Since 2002, Sylvie Poillot has been a driving force at Domaine de la Vougeraie, a flagship estate of the Boisset family in Burgundy. Founded in 1999, the estate was one of the region’s biodynamic pioneers and now includes 177 plots spread across 52.15 hectares, from Chassagne-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin.
One of the estate’s unique features lies in its six ‘monopoles’, including the iconic Vougeot Premier Cru Le Clos Blanc. In Burgundy, these ‘climates’, or plots, owned by a single proprietor are considered the holy grail.
After beginning her career as a sommelier at Le Bristol in Paris, Sylvie brought with her a sense of style and hospitality to Vougeraie. Under her leadership where diligence meets ardour to reveal the depth of each parcel, she is surrounded by a close-knit team: Jean-Luc Rousseau, Camille Leynaud-Prince, and Timothée Gaussorgues. Together, they share a common vision: to preserve the identity of the wines while opening them up to new horizons.
True to the spirit of the Boisset family, she brings a feline-like energy to her team and her wines, she’s a Leo by sign, passionate, precise, and always in action. Her core human values and keen attention to detail have made Domaine de la Vougeraie a key player in contemporary Burgundy, celebrating the beauty of its terroirs and the emotion they evoke in every tasting.
How are you feeling at the start of this year?
I’m very happy to welcome the 2025 vintage. Years ending in “5” are usually favorable, and it feels like a breath of optimism after 2024… I never imagined experiencing such a severe mildew outbreak: it impacted not only the harvest, but also the morale of our vineyard teams. In biodynamics, it’s even more challenging, because we know that certain practices increase exposure to loss, especially when it rains every other day.
What mindset were you in when you arrived at the estate in 2002?
It was the very beginning. Pascal Marchand was still there. There was a real buzz of excitement, but also a lot of complexity and uncertainty. Everything needed to be structured and organised, including the distribution. My role was to put the estate on solid footing.
What was the turning point that made you leave Le Bristol and return to Burgundy?
I’m from Burgundy, from a family of winegrowers, my cousins are actually based in Marsannay-la-Côte. After my studies, I moved to Paris to study hotel management and then joined Le Bristol. I stayed there for six years, before managing the opening of a hotel next to Fouquet’s. They offered me the chance to open more hotels abroad, but I felt the pull to return to my roots. I decided to join my brother at the family restaurant. One day, I came across a job opening for a commercial assistant at the Boisset Group headquarters. I got the job, and six months later, Mr. Boisset offered me the position of Director at Domaine de la Vougeraie. I accepted without hesitation: it was a true challenge, but also a return to my first love, management.
What was your first major challenge?
Distribution. We had to convince people and build networks. In France, I was lucky to be supported by some extraordinary sommeliers, who brought the domaine’s wines to the finest tables. We shared the same language, the same codes. That helped me tremendously.
Internationally, I built everything on my own, as a self-taught professional. I took inspiration from the Romanée-Conti model to create our own program.
What have been the key moments in your career?
The departure of Pierre Vincent in 2016 was a real test for me. We were a very complementary duo. When he left, I found myself managing the viticultural side alone. I still remember buying my first vineyard tractor! I had to get much more involved with the teams. Dialogue became essential, which ultimately turned out to be a great asset.
Another defining moment was during the first lockdown in March 2020. We were all facing something unknown and unprecedented. In that unusual context, we had to adapt quickly, and all the cellar team came out to help in the vineyard. We were allowed to work outdoors, so I brought everyone together wherever possible, including myself. It was a moment of great human cohesion.
What qualities are needed to run such a domain?
You need to understand every role, and be willing to get your hands into everything. I understand the challenges, I provide guidance, but I never make decisions alone. I have a precious team around me: oenologists, cellar masters, vineyard managers…
During harvest, I’m out in the field, in the cellar, always in touch with both the team and the grapes.
How do you inspire and lead your team on a daily basis?
With good humour, always! I’m full of energy early in the morning; I’m in contact with the vineyard manager every day at 6:15 a.m. I drink a lot of coffee… During harvest, I play music! Above all, I truly love what I do. I believe motivation and a smile come naturally when that’s the case.
What has been the most difficult decision you’ve had to make?
Choosing the harvest date is always an intense moment that requires a great deal of organization. But in 2024, the hardest part was keeping the team focused despite the losses caused by mildew. I had to be very present, to remind everyone that biodynamic farming comes with risks but also that the family and the estate are united in this path, no matter what. That support is essential.
What’s the secret to your longevity in this role?
I’m never bored. Each day is different, each vintage is unique. There’s always fresh energy, new ideas, and the encounters nourish me. Just yesterday, I welcomed a group of young sommeliers, passionate, curious, eager to understand. That’s why we do this job.
What do you wish someone had passed on to you at their age?
Technical knowledge. That drive to explore, to truly understand things in depth.
What is the spirit of the Boisset family?
Originally, all the vineyards were part of the larger Boisset group. But in 1999, the family decided to create a separate entity: Domaine de la Vougeraie. The name was selected because of the many appellations around Vougeot and, of course, the monopole of Clos Blanc. From the very beginning, they committed to organic farming, a bold move at the time, as only a handful of estates had taken that step.
Which vintage marked a turning point for the estate?
In 2006, a real milestone was reached with the arrival of Pierre Vincent. He introduced a vertical press for the reds, which brought a silkier texture and a gentler style. Since then, we’ve gained consistency and finesse, with much less new oak, today, it represents just 20%.
One little-known detail: our barrel wood comes from the Cîteaux forest. We select the trees with the sawmill, and the staves are then seasoned at the estate for three years. For coopering, we entrust our staves to five different coopers to maintain a diversity of barrel styles.
What is the signature of Domaine de la Vougeraie?
Purity. The aromatic brilliance of the wines is directly linked to our biodynamic practices. No synthetic inputs have been used in the vineyard since 1999.
The estate has six monopoles, would you say that’s the holy grail in Burgundy? How are they managed?
Above all, it’s a tremendous responsibility. Each monopole is treated like a unique child. Take Clos Blanc, for example, it’s harvested in several stages and vinified separately… When you taste it, it’s unlike anything else.
We had to build its reputation: before 1999, it was sold exclusively in Japan. Today, demand is very high. To avoid frustration, we’ve implemented a strict allocation strategy, small quantities to maintain its visibility across markets and establish its reputation.
What are the genuine benefits of biodynamic farming?
The aromatics are much more precise and vibrant. Since 2001, we’ve been preparing our own holistic treatments, drying herbs, and building a preventive approach based on natural virtues. In the cellar, for example, bâtonnage is done when the moon is rising.
But rain remains our biggest constraint, sometimes we can’t get the tractor into the vineyard, so the team goes on foot. It’s a real human investment.
What are you most proud of?
My team. The wonderful atmosphere we’ve built together. And… seeing our wines on fine tables all over the world. That’s always a deeply gratifying moment.
An unforgettable memory?
There are so many… but it’s often the shared moments of laughter that I often reminisce about.
Your mentors?
Mr. Boisset and Jasper Morris have taught me so much. I have the utmost admiration for Aubert de Villaine. And also Christophe Roumier, Jean-Louis Trapet, Dominique Lafon… They’ve all inspired and supported me along the way. And of course, my husband: he is my balance; and my daughter, my pride!
Stream of consciousness
Film: The City of Joy. A film that deeply moved me.
Music: Gims (I went to see them live in Paris), Coldplay, Dire Straits, Pink Floyd, Bono…
Book: Eugénie Grandet by Balzac. This novel gave me a taste for reading. Since then, I’ve read extensively.
Season: Spring. It’s when everything begins again, when life gets moving.
Signature dish: My latest: chicken with morels. Generally, I love cooking.
Person to dine with: An intimate meal with all the people who have mattered to me, those who have crossed my life and left a mark.
Bottle for this dinner: Anything but Burgundy, for the surprise! Maybe a Barolo, a Vega Sicilia Unico… or a Château Lafleur.
Destination: Mongolia, for the call of wide open spaces.
Mantra: You can always do better, but you have to savour the fortune of what you have.
Bad habit: A little too much coffee in the morning…
A pleasure: Being with the whole family on Sundays. Nothing makes me happier.
Propos recueillis par Marie-Pierre Dardouillet, Cépages communication pour Vignobles et Châteaux
Photos : Marie-Pierre Dardouillet